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I really love Tirana. There’s so much to do and see in the city during the day and night and it’s still very much off the beaten path.
The hospitality received as a tourist will leave a lasting impression on your experience in Tirana, and the rest of Albania as well. The Albanian people completely captured my heart. I visited Tirana, and Albania, twice in less than a year and I very rarely visit the same place twice, so that speaks volumes. Some people say there’s nothing to see in Tirana, so not everyone will love it, but I think they’re not fully opening their eyes and ears.
Tirana’s city centre is very compact, so you can walk just about everywhere and explore the city with ease. Tirana also has a bike share program, like most major European cities. I felt very safe in Tirana, even when walking alone at night, as a female.
TOP THINGS TO SEE AND DO IN TIRANA
EXPLORE SKANDERBEG SQUARE
This is a great place to start your exploration of Tirana because it’s the centre of the city and a lot of keys sights are in and around the area. Skanderbeg Square is named after the national hero who led the rebellion against the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century.
My walking tour guide was the best because he was a teenager during the 1980s, which means he lived through some of the craziest times in Albania and then experienced all the changes in the country after communism fell. He said they didn’t have cars, bananas or jeans (and much, much more) until the 1990s, after the fall of communism. His stories were extremely captivating and completely blew my mind. However, when I returned to Tirana 9 months later and went on the walking tour again with a different guide, it wasn’t quite as captivating, so it really depends on who your guide is.
On the walking tour, you also visit a number of Tirana’s main attractions such as Skanderbeg Square, Ethem Bej Mosque, the Clock Tower, the Pyramid of Tirana, Post Blloku, the Blloku, etc. The walking tours start at 10am and 6pm everyday in front of the opera house. A tip is expected and deserved.
*** Albania’s history in the last century is INSANE. Mostly because Albania’s communist dictator, Enver Hoxha, was insane and made Albania super communist and kept the country isolated from the rest of the world for 4 decades. In the late 1970s, Hoxha severed ties with Albania’s only allies, Russia and then China, because he thought they weren’t communist enough, which left Albania in complete isolation.
As a result, Albania became a completely contained and independent country, with no imports or exports, which was like living in jail. No one was allowed in and no one was allowed out; there wasn’t enough food; there were terrifying prison and labour camps; collective punishment was practiced, meaning if a family member escaped or attempted to escape, their entire family would pay the violent price; anything against the regime was punishable by death; 1 in 3 people was an informant; and they were taught that westerners were evil and to be shot immediately if found. Enver Hoxha’s tyrannical communist regime is comparable to present day North Korea.
The Albanian people have endured some severely dark times and yet they’re the some of the nicest, most hospitable people in the world. It’s truly remarkable and amazing.
VISIT THE NATIONAL HISTORY MUSEUM
This is a great place to learn more about Albania’s history. Unfortunately, there isn’t a lot of English, but it’s still very much worthwhile. Located in Skanderbeg Square. 200L (€1.60).
CLIMB THE CLOCK TOWER AND ENJOY THE VIEW of Skanderbeg Square. 200L (€1.60).
VISIT ET’HEM BEY MOSQUE
This is the only mosque in Tirana that wasn’t destroyed during communism and it’s one of the oldest buildings left in Tirana. This small and elegant mosque, with beautiful and colorful frescoes inside, took 3 decades to build and was finally completed in 1820. Located in Skanderbeg Square.
VISIT AND CLIMB THE PYRAMID OF TIRANA
Completed in 1988, this monstrously unattractive building was designed by Enver Hoxha’s daughter as a museum dedicated to her father after his death, and it’s an absolute must-see in Tirana. Since the fall of communism, NATO used it as their headquarters during the war in Kosovo in 1999; then a TV station; and more recently, a convention centre, a nightclub, protests and public gatherings.
Stripped of the marble tiles that once covered it, the pyramid is now derelict, covered in graffiti and smashed windows. The government planned to demolish it, but many locals heavily protested because it’s a part of their history. And history, no matter how dark and ugly, must be remembered. Now, Tirana’s youth and tourists like to climb the Pyramid to hang out, and then slide down. Located near Skanderbeg Square.
*** Watch out for the scammer who hangs around the Pyramid. He tried to pull the exact same move on me 9 months apart- he told me a guilt-inducing story about how he didn’t have any money, asked me to buy him groceries and to go to Mount Datji together and then he tried to kiss me. He is not dangerous, he’s just very creepy and annoying, so just tell him to f*** off. This was literally the only unpleasant experience I had both times in Albania. I felt very safe both times I was in Tirana and Albania.
VISIT POSTBLLOK AND SEE A PIECE OF THE BERLIN WALL
As well as a bunker and concrete pillars of a notorious labour camp (Spaç, which is often compared to Auschwitz), which all commemorate the victims of Enver Hoxha’s Communist regime. The memorial is placed at the entrance of the former off-limits neighbourhood of the Blloku, where Enver Hoxha and his Communist elite friends used to reside. The 2.6 ton slab of the Berlin wall was a gift from the city of Berlin and it’s a reminder to never do the whole Communist thing again. Furthermore, the bunker is symbolic of the 700,000+ bunkers that were built all over Albania during Enver Hoxha’s 45-year-long communist regime, due to his severe paranoia of foreign invasion. This works out to be 1 bunker for every 4 people. Free.
HANG OUT, EAT, DRINK AND PARTY IN THE TRENDY BLLOKU
During communist times, “The Block” was a gated and heavily patrolled area of Tirana where Enver Hoxha and his communist elite friends lived the high life behind closed doors, while everyone else lived in extreme poverty on the outside. Now, the Blloku is the most trendy district in the city and it’s where Tirana comes to eat, drink, shop and party. It has the best restaurants, boutiques, cafes, bars and a vibrant nightlife. It is the most expensive area of Tirana, so it still holds a level of exclusivity.
ENJOY THE CAFE CULTURE
Tirana’s cafe culture is strong. Enjoying a coffee (or another beverage of your choice) is a great way to relax and enjoy a slower pace of life, build and maintain relationships, and observe life around you. And as a traveler, it’s also great to catch up in your journal, do wi-fi things and to watch the world go by. The Blloku has the best cafes. See below for recommendations.
EXPLORE AND LEARN AT BUNK’ART 1
This is an absolute must-see in Tirana. This enormous underground bunker, with over 100 rooms on 5 levels, was built for Hoxha and his government officials in the event of foreign invasion and it has been converted into a one of the most interesting and authentic museums and art exhibitions in the world. Everything is in English and Albanian. It’s near Mount Datji, so people often combine the two in one trip. Take a bicycle, bus or taxi to get there. Entrance is 500L (€4).
EXPLORE AND LEARN AT BUNK’ART 2
This newer, smaller little sister of Bunk’Art 1 is in the centre of Tirana. Bunk’Art 1 is superior, but this one is still worth checking out. Located in Skanderbeg Square. 500L (€4).
HIKE OR TAKE A CABLE CAR UP MOUNT DATJI
Escape the city and enjoy the nature in this national park on the mountain on the outskirts of the city. It’s a 15 minute cable car ride to the top, at 1613m, where you can enjoy the view, explore, hike, see the sunset and enjoy the restaurant with a view. The entrance to Mount Datji is near Bunk’Art 1, so it’s popular to combine the two. Take a bicycle, bus or taxi to get there. One way 500L (€4), return 800L (€6.50).
ENJOY THE COLORFUL BUILDINGS AND STREET ART
In the early 2000s, Tirana underwent a massive facelift and transformed from a city full of drab and depressing grey communist style buildings to a city full of bright, colorful and cheerful buildings and street art, thanks to the former mayor, who is also an artist. The buildings are still the same, but they were used as canvases for color and creativity, which was a genius way to revamp a city on an extremely minimal budget. In addition to the colorful buildings, every electrical box in the city is painted with a cartoon or celebrity. They’re all over Tirana, so it’s fun to look at them all while you’re exploring.
VISIT THE HOUSE OF LEAVES – THE MUSEUM OF SECRET SURVEILLANCE
The newest museum in Tirana is considered to be the equivalent of the Stasi (secret police) headquarters of former East Germany. During World War II, while Albania was under German occupation, the building was used by the Gestapo; however, after the war, the Albanian secret police took it over so they could spy on Albanians during the communist times and convict them of political crimes. 700L (€5.70)
VISIT NJI MAR NJI MRAPSHT
Where you can shop or window shop for artwork and handmade gifts by local artists.
VISIT A GABI, TIRANA’S GYPSY MARKETS
And shop for secondhand goods and antiques.
STROLL AROUND THE GRAND PARK OF TIRANA
And the man-made lake and war memorial to enjoy the peacefulness of the green space. Near the Blloku.
WHERE TO EAT AND ENJOY CAFE CULTURE
THE BLLOKU – You’re spoiled for choice with fun, hip cafes and restaurants in this area. The cafe culture is strong here.
ZGARA KORCA ZHIDRO – I stumbled upon this restaurant and grill for my first meal in Albania and as it turned out, it’s very highly rated! It offers delicious grilled meats and vegetables. I was hooked and went back again.
ODA – A popular restaurant serving authentic and traditional Albanian food.
KOMITETI KAFE MUZEUM – This cool spot is called a “cafe museum” because it’s filled with communist artifacts, making it a must in Tirana. It also has the largest raki (the liquor of the Balkans) collection in Tirana.
TEK ZGARA TIRONES – A great restaurant with reasonable prices for traditional Albanian food, especially for meat lovers. Two locations.
VEGGIES – A vegetarian and vegan restaurant in the Blloku with Asian, Mexican and Middle Eastern options and juices.
PEOPLE BAR – A cozy restaurant and bar with healthy options and cheaper prices in comparison to other places in the Blloku.
E7E – This library cafe offers coffee, food, books, art and a quiet workspace, making it one of the most laidback and artsy spaces in Tirana.
MON AMOUR PATISSERIE – For fancy treats, pastries, gelato and cakes.
THE TEA ROOM – A charming place to go for tea, cakes and treats.
SOPHIE CAFE – This famous chain in Tirana has charming coffee shops where you can find all kinds of coffee beverages, delicious cakes, cookies, and pastries.
MON CHERI – Another popular cafe chain in Tirana offering coffee, tea, sandwiches and desserts.
BARS AND CAFES
The hip bars in Tirana have a lot of character and charm. Many places in Tirana double as a chill, quiet place to have a morning or afternoon coffee and then a lively place to enjoy cocktails later at night. The only issue is that the bars can get incredibly smokey from all the cigarettes, but hopefully this will change in the next few years. Albania practices a patriarchal society, so you’ll notice more men than women in the streets, cafes and bars, especially at night. There are even some cafes and bars for men only.
THE BLLOKU is the most trendy and vibrant district in the city and it’s where Tirana comes to eat, drink, shop and party. It has the best restaurants, boutiques, cafes, bars and a vibrant nightlife. You’re spoiled for choice with fun, hip bars and cafes in the Blloku.
COLONIAL CAFE – This is the best cocktail bar in Tirana and one of the best cocktail bars in Europe. They boast an impressively extensive liquor collection, as well as very creative and innovative cocktails. The owner and manager are very friendly and social and they will help you pick a cocktail you’ll like, or they’ll create one for you.
HEMINGWAYS – A chill, cozy, kitschy and cool rum and cocktail bar, often with live music.
CAFE BY DAY, BAR BY NIGHT
- SKY TOWER – A rotating cafe, restaurant and bar with a 360 degree panoramic view of Tirana. Bring your camera.
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NOUVELLE VAGUE – A small, colorful, quirky, popular yet chill cafe by day and lively bar by night.
- KOMITETI KAFE MUZEUM – This cool spot is so nice I mentioned it twice 🙂 It’s called a “cafe museum” because it’s filled with communist paraphernalia, making it a must in Tirana. It offers more than 20 types of different raki, the famous spirit of the Balkans.
- TULLA CULTURE CENTRE – A quiet work or reading space during the day and a social art and culture space and bar by night. Each night there is an art exhibition or new band playing.
- RADIO BAR – This kitschy, colorful and cool hipster cafe and bar is decked out with antiques and relics of Albania’s communist past. Enjoy the fun, colorful courtyard in the back.
Radio Bar
NIGHTCLUBS
FOLIE TERRACE – The most famous nightclub in Tirana, which has hosted DJs from all over the world. Open Friday and Saturday.
LOLLIPOP – One of the oldest and most famous nightclubs in Tirana, which has hosted DJs from all over the world. Open Friday and Saturday.
ROOFTOP XVI – For a party with a view of Tirana.
WHERE TO STAY
The hostels in Tirana (and the rest of Albania) are extremely cheap and highly rated, with most hostels at a 9-10/10 rating, which makes it really hard to choose a hostel! This is really impressive considering tourism is still newer to Albania. They’ve really nailed the perfect hostel formula with amazing hospitality, delicious included breakfasts, chill vibes and laid-back outdoor spaces.
TIRANA’S BEST HOSTELS
HOMESTEL – I stayed here my first time in Tirana and I loved it. It’s very social with great vibes, it has super friendly and helpful staff, an awesome rooftop with an amazing view of Tirana, a kitchen, a great included breakfast and an optional dinner. I was tempted to stay here again my second time in Tirana, but I thought I should try one of the other many great hostels.
TIRANA BACKPACKER HOSTEL – This was Albania’s first hostel, which opened in 2005. I stayed here my second time in Tirana because of the high ratings, proximity to the Blloku (fun cafes and nightlife) and because it had a private room to share with my sister, who I dragged to Albania. The hostel has a lovely, peaceful courtyard and garden with a bar, a kitchen, included breakfast and optional vegetarian dinner.
MILINGONA – Another great, colorful hostel in the centre with a garden patio, included breakfast, great social atmosphere, a bar and a kitchen.
Dorms €8-11.
Private for 2 with shared bathroom €30+
TRIP’N’HOSTEL – Another great hostel in the centre with two courtyards, included breakfast, great social atmosphere, a bar and a kitchen.
DAY TRIPS
KRUJË (OR KRUJA) – This important historical town is also known as the city of Skanderbeg, who is Albania’s national hero because he led the rebellion against the Ottoman Empire here in the 15th century. You can visit Krujë Castle on the mountain and enjoy the view; explore Skanderbeg Museum inside the castle; visit the Ethnographic Museum; and explore the Old Bazaar where you’ll find souvenirs and authentic antiques at extremely low prices. 45 minutes by bus from Tirana 100L (€0.80).
DURRËS – This is a great place to enjoy the coast, at only 45 minutes from Tirana. Many people go to Durrës, Albania’s second largest city, for the beaches and for some of the best nightlife in the country. But the city also offers some great history with its Byzantine city walls, Venetian Tower and ancient Roman Amphitheatre, which is the largest in the Balkans and once had a capacity for 20,000 people. But because of its proximity to Tirana and the ease of a day trip, the beaches can get very busy, especially on weekends and in high season (July-August). The best beaches are further south on the Albanian Riviera. Durrës has one of biggest ports on the Adriatic, where you can take a ferry to Italy. 45 minute bus from Tirana 130L (€1) .
GET IN AND OUT
Tirana has the only international airport in Albania.
Albania does not have any trains.
Albania does not have any proper bus stations, but there are designated areas/parking lots in Tirana for buses going north or south. Don’t worry, it’s much more organized than it sounds.
SHKODRA (OR SHKODER) – 2 hour bus. 500L (€4)
BERAT – 3 hour bus. 400L (€3)
STRUGA (LAKE OHRID) – 4 hour bus. 1750L (€14)
PRISTINA – 4 hour bus. 1400L (€11)
