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Gjirokaster is a charming, ancient town perched high above the Drina Valley in southern Albania. The old town and the domineering 4th century Gjirokaster castle and fortress grant Gjirokaster UNESCO World Heritage Site status because it’s a rare and wonderful example of a very well-preserved Ottoman town. And it’s one of the prettiest towns in Albania.
Gjirokaster is a very important historical and cultural town that is known for its extensive use of stone in building the houses, which resemble small fortresses, and cobblestoned streets, which is how it got the name “The City of Stone”. The town is also the birthplace of the famous and beloved Albanian writer, Ismail Kadare, and communist dictator, Enver Hoxha.
Like the rest of Albania, there are very minimal tourists here and the locals are so lovely and sweet.
Many people visit Gjirokaster or Berat for a taste of a historical Ottoman town, but do visit both if you have the time! Both towns are UNESCO sites and considered “museum” towns. I only explored Gjirokastra and I chose it over Berat because the town is built on a mountain, in a mountainous region, which I thought made the ancient Ottoman town exceptionally stunning.
TOP THINGS TO SEE AND DO IN GJIROKASTER
EXPLORE THE UNESCO OLD TOWN
The town is very photogenic so it’s lovely to walk around the winding cobblestone streets and admire the historical Ottoman buildings. Take a walking tour for some added insight and history.
EXPLORE GJIROKASTER CASTLE AND FORTRESS
The walk up to this 4th century castle and fortress is really beautiful and scenic. At the top, you can explore the fortress grounds and enjoy the stunning view of Gjirokaster and the surrounding countryside below. You’ll also find a recovered US Air Force jet that was shot down during the communist era. Entrance 200L (€1.60).
THE MUSEUM OF WEAPONS
Inside the Gjirokaster fortress, where weapons from the Stone Age up until WWII are displayed. 200L (€1.60).
THE OLD BAZAAR
The bazaar isn’t an obvious enclosed market place; instead, it refers to a district of Gjirokaster, in the centre of the Old Town where you’ll find charming souvenir shops selling artisan crafts, stores and cafes.
EXPLORE THE COLD WAR TUNNEL
Built underneath the Gjirokaster fortress, this large labyrinth of functional rooms was created for refuge in the event the West attacked. It’s a fascinating look at the paranoia of the communist era. Unlike Bunk Art in Tirana, the tunnel and rooms have been left in their original state. A guide is necessary for a very short tour and it’s very dark (and creepy) inside, so a flashlight or phone light is necessary. The tunnels are empty, so there isn’t much to see, which is kind of the point- it’s more about thinking and feeling. The tunnels are nice and cool, so it’s a great way to escape the heat on a hot day. 200L (€1.60) per person.
VISIT THE ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM
This museum and former house of Albania’s former communist dictator, Enver Hoxha, provides insight into the lives of the upper-class in the 19th century by showcasing household items, folk costumes and cultural artefacts. It also provides excellent insight into a key period of Albania’s Ottoman history. 200L (€1.60).
VISIT THE TRADITIONAL OTTOMAN HOUSES
Which give insight into the traditional life of an upper-class family from Gjirokaster in the 18th and 19th centuries. The Zekate house, built in 1812, is the best surviving example of an Ottoman tower house in Gjirokaster. The Skenduli house is also popular site. Each house is 200L (€1.60) and a family member will show you around.
EXPLORE THE SURROUNDING NATURE
Albania’s nature is very untouched and the scenery surrounding Gjirokaster is certainly no exception, with the mountains and lush greenery. It’s an easy hike to the Ali Pasha Bridge, an early 19th century aqueduct (pictured below). Ask your hostel/hotel or a tour agency about organizing or recommending a day trip.
SHOP FOR OR ADMIRE THE ANTIQUES
They’re very authentic and affordable. My sister got a beautiful antique bowl from the 1920s for €15.
NEED TO KNOW
In Albanian, it’s called Gjirokastra or Gjirokastër. You’re sure to see it written and pronounced in each of these forms, but it’s all the same place.
There is far less English spoken in Gjirokaster.
Gjirokaster is in the mountains, so while it does get hot, it is a little cooler than the coast, especially at night, even in the summer.
WHERE TO EAT
GJORÇA – This tiny streetside restaurant in the heart of the old town offers tasty homemade meals and it’s one of the best places to try qifqi.
ODAJA – Where you can enjoy very affordable, traditional food on a charming, private balcony while watching the world go by below. My sister and I enjoyed a meal of stuffed peppers, an eggplant dish and qifqi (Gjirokaster’s signature dish of fried rice balls with egg, fresh mint and seasoning). Vegetable dishes are 100-300L (€0.80-2.40), while meat dishes are slightly more.
GET IN
From Saranda, it’s 1 hour by car or 1.5 hours by bus (400L/€3.25). You will pass by Syri Kalter (the Blue Eye) on the way, so if you have your own car, I recommend stopping here. The bus will drop you at the bottom of the hill in Gjirokaster, where it’s a quick 200L (€1.60) taxi to top, or you can walk if you feel like a 30 minute uphill workout.
Gjirokaster can be visited on a day trip from Saranda, but more time is always preferable. I felt one day and night was fairly sufficient. You could spend 1.5-2+ days if you have the desire to see more museums, Ottoman houses, nature and hiking, or if you need time to relax. It is a lovely, peaceful town to relax.
It’s a 4 hour bus to/from Berat.
WHERE TO STAY
Stay in the Old Town, which is on the hill (the new town is downhill).
I stayed at Stone City Hostel for €10/night. It’s a really beautiful hostel with helpful, knowledgeable staff, really nice facilities and comfortable beds. They offer walking tours, a delicious included breakfast and there’s a lovely common area and an outdoor patio for relaxing and socializing.
