Viñales - The Garden and Cigar Capital of Cuba

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Viñales is a very small, relaxed town located in one of the most beautiful areas of Cuba. The town is characterized by quiet streets and cheerful, colorful homes with verandas and rocking chairs, against a background of the picturesque Viñales Valley (Valle de Viñales). And it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site thanks to the stunning lush greenery, limestone monoliths and red earth.

And it’s the cigar capital of Cuba. Viñales Valley is a very fertile agricultural area that grows organic fruit, vegetables, coffee and tobacco. Everything is farmed using old school, traditional methods, which means fields are plowed by oxen and crops are picked by hand. Because of the fertile soil and the traditional agricultural practices used (modern mechanical methods of cultivation and harvesting lower the quality of tobacco), the best tobacco in the world is found in Viñales. A cigar from Viñales is the best and most authentic Cuban cigar you’ll find in Cuba and the rest of the world.

Viñales is also a great place for anyone who loves nature and a quiet, laidback atmosphere. Or if you need a break from the crazy nightlife in Havana.

TOBACCO AND CIGAR TOUR

The #1 thing to do in Viñales is to take a tobacco tour where you’ll visit a tobacco farm and learn the process of making Cuba’s famous cigars. You’ll also have an opportunity to smoke a cigar and they’ll send you home with your own cigar.

Four travelers I met in Havana and I got a guide to take us on a tour of a tobacco farm, a coffee plantation, a cave and then horseback riding through the countryside for $20CUC each (CUC is on par with USD).

They show you how they hand pick the tobacco leaves, remove the stem (which holds the majority of the nicotine), then spray the leaves with a mixture of honey, rum and vanilla (other variations can include pineapple, guava, cinnamon and sugar cane), and then the leaves are left to dry. Once the leaves are dry, they’re rolled into cigars by hand.

Tobacco leaves Cuba

Our Cuban cigar master made a fresh cigar on the spot, dipped the tip in honey and then we all smoked it together. Even for non-smokers, trying a Cuban cigar in Cuba is a must. I hate cigarette smoking, but of course I tried a Cuban cigar. It tasted very pleasant and sweet!

You can also buy more cigars at a cheaper price than anywhere else in Cuba. The cheapest and the best quality are two traits that are rarely experienced together, so take advantage. Your friends and family will thank you.

MORE ACTIVITIES IN VIÑALES

Horseback riding
Cycling
Rock climbing
Hiking
Explore the caves
Swimming holes, limestone mountains, and farms
The beach is a half day trip away

MY EXPERIENCE

The tobacco tour and the beautiful landscape were the highlights of Viñales.

The day after the cigar tour, our casa particular arranged for a guide to take us on a walk in the countryside for $8CUC each. It was beautiful, but it was over 5 hours of exploring in the heat of the day with next to no shade, so a little less time would’ve been ideal. It would’ve been nice to go hiking in Viñales, but it was very hot and very humid when I was there in early April and just the simple walk in the valley was intensely hot. The day temperature is only a slightly “cooler” in December and January, so hiking in the early morning is best.

Viñales relies heavily on tourism, so of course it’s touristy, with the main street in the town being the most touristy; but despite that, it’s still very laidback, authentic and beautiful. The town is very quiet at night, which is great if you need a break from Havana.

Unless you’re going on a big hike, rock climbing adventure or day trips, Viñales can be enjoyed in one full day or 1.5 days. I felt satisfied with what I saw in a day and a half.

GETTING IN AND OUT

Viñales is a 3.5-4 hour taxi ride from Havana that will cost $50-120CUC+, depending on your bargaining skills. You can fit 5-6 passengers in a taxi to split the cost. We paid $80CUC for a taxi, split between 5. Or you can take the bus, which is around $12CUC and about 3.5-4 hours.

You can take a taxi, bus or colectivo (shared taxi) back to Havana or you can take a bus to Trinidad for around $37CUC (and about 9.5 hours). I took a $15CUC colectivo back to Havana and I’ll never forget how the colectivo showed up- a classic car pulled up to our casa particular and 4 young, attractive Cuban guys got out and walked up to the veranda to talk to the lady of the casa to ask for us, and off we went. It felt reminiscent of the movie Grease and it was awesome.

WHERE TO STAY

As usual in Cuba, stay in a casa particular (which is like a homestay) for $20-25CUC per night. If you’re a solo budget traveler, you can cut costs by finding someone to share with and pay $10-12CUC/night.

WHERE TO EAT

Cheap local food is harder to find in Viñales. I could only find pricier tourist restaurants, so expect to pay $7-10CUC for a meal (instead $1-2CUC like in Havana).