What to Expect on the 4 Day Inca Trail Hike To Machu Picchu

The Inca trail that leads to Machu Picchu in the Andes mountains of Peru is one of the most famous hiking trails in the world.  The scenery along the hike is breathtaking as it passes through lush green cloud forest, Andean peaks, and landscape dotted with ancient Inca ruins.

The classic Inca trail is 42 km long and it’s typically hiked over 4 days and 3 nights.  Hikers ascend 2 mountain passes over 4,000m and then descend to where Machu Picchu lies at 2,430m.

The Inca trail hike to Machu Picchu is the second most popular attraction in Peru, after Machu Picchu itself, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the “New 7 Wonders of the World”.  Machu Picchu is also one of the top attractions in all of South America.

 

WHAT TO EXPECT ON THE 4 DAY INCA TRAIL HIKE TO MACHU PICCHU

 

DAY 1

• Distance  –  12 km (5-6 hours)
• Elevation Gain  –  350m
• Campsite altitude  –  3,300m
• Difficulty  –  Easy – Moderate

Pickup starts in Cusco before dawn and then it’s a 3 hour drive to the start of the Inca trail.  There were 9 other travelers in my hiking group who would be my friends for the next few days (and some even longer- I met up with 2 of them in Brazil).

Another guy in my group and I were the only ones without hiking boots.  I just had regular running shoes and I was the only one without a walking stick.

The first day of the trek was more of a long walk and warm up because it was mostly flat, so it was easy.  It took about 5 hours, broken up between lunch and snack breaks.

We definitely needed our bug spray for the first day because we got attacked by mosquitoes.  Before the hike, I was completely ignorant to the fact that Machu Picchu and part of the Inca Trail are in the jungle.

The amount of food provided on the hike was really amazing.  I was worried about the food situation because I find that tours often starve you and when they do feed you, it’s terrible food; which was especially worrisome when you don’t have any other options for food, while hiking 7-8 hours per day.  But on the Inca trail, we were getting fed 3 course meals, so we were not disappointed or left hungry!

We went to bed at 7:30pm at 3,300 m.  Because I was a solo traveler, I got my own tent.

 

DAY 2

• Walking distance  –  16 km (6-8 hours)
• Elevation gain  –  1,115m
• Campsite altitude  –  3,600m
• Difficulty  –  Most difficult day

The porters woke us up at 5:30am with hot coca tea.

The second day of the Inca Trail is considered the most difficult and feared day of the hike because the majority of the hike is uphill and very steep for 6-8 hours or more (or less, depending on your speed) and the elevation reaches over 4,200m.  Everyone was nervous and dreading it, but I decided to not let it intimidate me.

I put my music on, got in the zone and off I went.

It’s about a 4 hour hike to the highest pass of the trek, Dead Woman’s Pass at 4,215m.

After Dead Woman’s Pass, you start hiking downhill for a while.  Downhill is also challenging, with really steep, uneven steps.  It’s quicker than hiking uphill, but it’s more challenging for your legs and safety, in my opinion.  I prayed I wouldn’t fall and twist my knee or ankle.

Then we ascended to another mountain pass, and then downhill again, while passing a few Inca sites.

As soon as we arrived to our campsite, everyone had a nap because we were absolutely wiped.

Another early night to bed.  We were at 4200m and it was so cold that I had a really hard time sleeping.  I was wearing 4 pairs of socks, 3 of which were knee high and made of alpaca wool, and I wore gloves, yet my hands and feet were still freezing.  It was the end of January, which was their “warmer” season.

 

DAY 3

• Walking distance  –  15km (5-6 hours)
• Campsite altitude  –  2,600m
• Elevation  –  Descend 1000m
• Difficulty  –  Mostly downhill, which is easier on the lungs, but very difficult on the legs

We were woken up at 6:30am to hot tea again.

All the girls in my hiking group also couldn’t sleep because they were too cold.  And it had rained overnight, so everything got wet, which made it extra cold.

The third day of hiking was the longest day, in terms of distance and time, but it was mostly downhill.  It was also the prettiest day, in terms of scenery.

You hike through the cloud forest and stop at a few more Inca sites along the way.

It ended up being the most difficult day for me, due to all the downhill, because my toes kept smashing into the front of my shoes, which was extremely painful.  The next day, most people’s legs, myself included, were the most sore after this massive descent.

It started pouring rain and we got drenched, even with ponchos.  It became the day that would never end.

Early to bed again because we had to wake up at 3:30am the next morning.

 

DAY 4

 

• Walking distance  –  5km (1-2 hours), followed by exploring Machu Picchu
• Difficulty  –  Easy, unless you add on Huanya Picchu or Machu Picchu mountain (which you really should!), which both overlook Machu Picchu

We woke up at 3:30am and walked for 10 minutes to the gate of the trail that led to the Sungate and Machu Picchu, where we were first in line to wait until the trail opened at 5:30am.

When they let us through the gate at 5:30am, I sprinted past everyone because I wanted to get there before it got overcrowded.  It was about an hour and a half walk.  At the end of the trail, you climb the steep stairs to the Sungate, where you get the first amazing, famous view over Machu Picchu.

4 days of hiking for this:

It was amazing.  I’d wanted to see Machu Picchu since I was a kid and I’d made my own diorama of Machu Picchu out of rocks.

The weather was very volatile- one minute Machu Picchu was covered in clouds, then 10 minutes later, it would clear up.

We went to a viewpoint of Machu Picchu, where our guide started to tell us the history of Machu Picchu.  It was interesting, but we sat there for so long and I could see Machu Picchu filling with tourists.

I was getting antsy because I desperately wanted to explore and I felt like we were missing out on some great photo opportunities.  And I was really annoyed because we woke up at an ungodly hour to be the first at Machu Picchu, but that very small window of time before thousands of tourists arrived was unnecessarily squandered.

There were sooo many people there.  It was a shock to be in civilization again and around so many humans after barely seeing anyone for 3 days.  And all these people looked all fresh to death with nice clothes, hair and makeup.  Those of us who actually hiked to Machu Picchu felt a little bitter towards those people because we were filthy, unshowered and looked like crap and we had actually earned Machu Picchu, damn it!

I also visited Huayna Picchu, the mountain that overlooks Machu Picchu.  The permit to visit is an extra $75US and it has to be booked in advance when you book your hike.  I was surprised that I was the only one in my group who did it.  I figured if you’re already right there, you might as well see it.

The 45 minute hike up to Huayna Picchu was insane and extremely steep!  At the top, you could see the bird’s eye view of Machu Picchu, so you could see that it’s shaped like a condor.

I headed back to Machu Picchu where I probably should’ve explored some more, but the thousands of tourists (2,500-5,000+ per day) was extremely off-putting and it made it difficult to get around, enjoy it and take proper photos, so I left.  It was really disappointing.  I wish I had taken pictures of how many tourists there were.

Our hiking group headed to Aguas Calientes, the nearby town, where I had my first warm shower in days.  It was glorious!  Aguas Calientes is extremely touristy and expensive, so I was glad I opted out of staying the night.

We took the late evening train and then a bus back to Cusco where we were dropped in the central square at 11:30pm.

 

WHEN TO GO AND WEATHER

 

The mountains have two seasons- wet and dry.

DRY SEASON (May – October)

• Pros
  • Less rain
  • Warm, dry mornings and afternoons
• Cons
  • It’s high season, which means it’ll be crowded
  • The nights are very cold (June-August can drop below zero)
  • You must book 6-12 months in advance

WET SEASON (November – April)

• Pros
  • Less people
  • Slightly cheaper
  • Can book a few weeks in advance
  • Less cold at night (but still cold)
• Cons
  • Rain (but it likely won’t rain the whole time)

I hiked at the end of January into early February, during the low and wet season, and it certainly did not rain the whole time.  I appreciated that it was a little warmer because I don’t do well in the cold.

 

NEED TO KNOW

 

CRUSHING THE INCA TRAIL COMES DOWN TO:

• A good attitude
• Fitness
• How much time you’ve had to adjust to high altitude
• Whether or not you hire a porter

IT IS 4 DAYS OF HIKING, BUT ONLY 2 OF THOSE DAYS ARE INTENSE, ALL DAY HIKES

However, the optional extra hikes of Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain are steep hikes, so that’ll add on more hiking to the 4th day.  But it’s worth it!

HIKING THE INCA TRAIL IS EXPENSIVE

Guided trekking is expensive and the permits add up.  On average, the Inca Trail hike costs around $600-900US+, which includes transportation to the trailhead from Cusco, a guide, porters, 3 meals per day, snacks, hiking permits, entry to Machu Picchu, a tent, and the train and bus back to Cusco.  If you want to hike Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain at Machu Picchu, those cost an extra $75US each.

However, you can find slightly cheaper trekking companies, but then you must consider: How many hikers are in each group?  How often and how much food is provided during the trek?  How does the company treat its porters?  Cheaper companies for the Inca Trail often have larger groups (15-25 people), which means your meals will be much smaller, and the don’t provide their porters with proper hiking gear.

If you need to rent hiking and camping gear like a backpack, sleeping bag, sleeping mat, and walking sticks, that will also cost extra.

HOW TO SAVE MONEY:

• Carry your own bag (so you save on hiring a porter)
• Bring your own gear so you don’t have to rent it (like a backpack, sleeping bag, sleeping mat, and walking sticks)
• Choose one of the other hikes to Machu Picchu

THERE ARE OTHER HIKING TRAILS TO MACHU PICCHU

The Salkantay trek is a very popular alternative, but it’s much longer at 72km over 5 days and 4 nights (instead of 42km over 4 days and 3 nights on the Inca trail) and it costs $500US+.

The Jungle trek is an adventure trek to Machu Picchu which includes hiking, downhill mountain biking, zip-lining and rafting. The most popular choice is the 4 days and 3 nights for $300US.

The Lares trek is an easier alternative trek to Machu Picchu and it stops at Andean villages along the way, so you can experience the local culture.  4 days and 3 nights for $500US.

The cheapest possible way to hike to Machu Picchu is to buy your permit for Machu Picchu in Cusco, then take a bus from Cusco to the train in Ollantaytambo and walk along the train tracks, which is 30km.  This needs to be hiked in one day and then you stay the night in Aguas Calientes and visit Machu Picchu in the morning.

YOU NEED TO BOOK THE INCA TRAIL IN ADVANCE

Usually I’m an advocate and fan of just showing up and booking a tour last minute, but the Inca trail is one of the few cases where this rarely works.  It is one of the top attractions in South America and only 500 people per day are allowed on the Inca trail, and that includes the guides and porters, which is usually about 300, leaving only about 200 spots available for hikers.  Huayna Picchu only allows 400 people per day in 2 groups of 200 (one in the morning and one in the afternoon).

I booked my hike in early January for January 30.  Luckily it was the wet season, which is not a popular time to go.  But you must book 6-12 months in advance for the high and dry season in June-August.

HIKING THE INCA TRAIL INDEPENDENTLY IS NOT AN OPTION 

Due of the limit of people on the trail each day, everyone must have a permit and be accompanied by a licensed guide.  There are a series of checkpoints on the trail that enforce this.

THE TREK ALSO INCLUDES:

• Ticket to Machu Picchu
• Train and bus back to Cusco

IT’S ALSO ABOUT THE JOURNEY, NOT JUST THE DESTINATION

You will see beautiful scenery and ancient Inca sites every day of the hike, so it’s not just about Machu Picchu.

TAKE TIME TO ACCLIMATIZE TO THE ALTITUDE IN CUSCO BEFORE YOU HIKE

Especially if you live at or around sea level.  Be kind to your body.

IT HELPS TO BE AT LEAST SOMEWHAT FIT BEFORE THE HIKE

The trail consists mainly of stone stairs, so if you can train by hiking (or walking flights of stairs in a building) beforehand, that will help immensely.  Going down the stairs is just as important training as going up because it strengthens your knees and prepares you for the downhill sections of the Inca Trail.

People of all ages and fitness hike the Inca trail.  Think of it as a challenge and motivation 🙂

THE PORTERS ARE SOME OF THE FITTEST PEOPLE YOU’LL EVER MEET

These men carry massive, heavy bags and run up and down the hills like it’s nothing.

YOU DO NOT HAVE TO SET UP AND TAKE DOWN YOUR TENT EACH DAY

Which is a relief and unlike my overland tour in Africa.

THE INCA TRAIL CLOSES IN FEBRUARY DUE TO HEAVY RAIN

January 31st is the last day you can start the hike.

THE FOOD QUALITY AND QUANTITY WAS AMAZING!

We were fed 3 course meals, so no one will be disappointed or go hungry!

DRINK A LOT OF WATER

Along with the hiking, high altitude is dehydrating.

EXPECT SQUAT TOILETS

You will need to bring your own toilet paper and hand sanitizer.

THERE ARE SHOWERS AVAILABLE ON DAY 2 & 3 OF THE HIKE

But they’re ice cold.

DON’T FORGET TO STRETCH!

Your legs will need it.

 

WHAT TO PACK

• mosquito repellant
• hiking boots
• passport
• sunscreen
• sun hat
• warm hat
• warm jacket
• gloves
• hiking poles
• poncho/rain gear
• waterproof backpack cover
• warm socks
• sweaters
• towel
• swimsuit (if you visit the hot springs in Aguas Calientes)
• non-hiking shoes (for when you’re done hiking for the day)
• pillow (or something you can use as a pillow)
• headphones for music
• snacks
• water bottle
• basic toiletries
• toilet paper and small bag for waste
• electronics charger
• earplugs
• headlamp
• hand sanitizer
• money for souvenirs, drinks and tips

 

MY EXPERIENCE HIKING THE INCA TRAIL

 

I was a little nervous about the 4 day Inca trail hike because everyone said how hard it was, I’d never hiked a multi-day trek, it’s very high altitude, I hadn’t exercised in nearly a month since I started traveling, and I was just recovering from being extremely sick with a fever.  The day after I finished the Inca trail, I was immediately sick again, so I’m extremely thankful I had a few days of health for my hike.

However, I had already been at high altitude for 3.5 weeks between Peru and Bolivia, so I was a fairly adjusted to the altitude.

I hadn’t done much hiking in my life up until the Inca trail, so I didn’t have any proper gear because I had no idea what I was doing.  I wore running shoes and I was the only one in my group who didn’t get a walking stick or poles, which was fine for me at the time.  However if I did the hike again, I would definitely use and recommend hiking poles, especially if you’re hiking with a heavy backpack.

I carried my own day pack, but I had a porter carry my tent, sleeping bag and sleeping mat, upon a friend’s recommendation.  Most people in my group hired a porter.  This also provides important jobs for the locals.

But despite all this, I did very well with the hike due to my athletic background.  I had done Crossfit for about a year and a half, so even though I had never hiked like this before, I was able to keep up with the experienced hikers.

The Inca Trail hike inspired me to become a hiker!  Now I hike all over the world and at home in Canada and I really enjoy it.

 

MORE INFORMATION ON PERU AND SOUTH AMERICA

 

What To Know Before You Go To Peru

What To Know Before You Go To South America