Palestine (The West Bank) – Everything You Need to Know Before You Go

From the Mediterranean climate and landscape, Arab culture and cuisine, world class hospitality, historical sights, local souks, and one of the most interesting political issues in modern history, exploring the West Bank in Palestine will definitely surprise you.

Palestine is home to several of the most significant sites for Muslims, Christians and Jews.  Whether you’re interested in exploring the religious sights, learning more about the Israeli-Palestinian “conflict” (i.e. Israeli occupation of Palestine) straight from the source, or if you’re a traveler interested in exploring an off the beaten path destination, Palestine has something to offer every kind of traveler.

*** This information is about traveling to the West Bank in Palestine. Palestine is divided into two regions: the West Bank and Gaza, both of which are separated by Israel. You cannot enter Gaza unless you’re a journalist or an NGO worker, in which case you’d need to apply for a permit (which can take months). Then you’ll likely have to enter Gaza through Egypt, from which the border crossing is only open a few days per month.

 

IS IT SAFE TO VISIT PALESTINE AND THE WEST BANK?

 

When you see Israel bombing Palestine in the news, it’s in Gaza, not the West Bank.  However, if you actually have the opportunity to visit Gaza during a time of calm, it would be an unforgettable and amazing experience.

The West Bank is NOT unsafe to visit, even as a solo female traveler (I’ve been twice as a solo female traveler). DO NOT believe what you see and hear on the media about how Palestinians are terrorists and that Palestine is a dangerous place to visit. This could not be further from the truth.  Palestinians are some of the most lovely, friendly and hospitable people on the planet and they are overjoyed to have foreigners visit and to prove the media wrong.

 

MY EXPERIENCE

 

I traveled to the West Bank twice as a solo female traveler, with a short trip in 2015 and a longer trip in 2019.  I’ve visited Ramallah and Hebron twice, Bethlehem and Nablus.  The second time I visited Ramallah, nearly every foreigner I met had returned to travel, work or study in Ramallah.  Something draws us all back.

This will sound odd to anyone who hasn’t been, but the West Bank is like this little cultural oasis in the desert that many people don’t know about and the rest don’t consider.  Aesthetically, it’s not necessarily the most beautiful place you’ll ever see, (but it once was, prior to the war and the occupation).  Palestine is a place to experience the culture and the people and it’s one of my favorite places in the world.

 

GETTING TO THE WEST BANK

 

There aren’t any international airports in Palestine. To visit the West Bank, you need to cross through Israel or Jordan. But even if you go through Jordan, Israel controls the Palestinian borders, so no matter what, you have to go through Israel.  

You can either take a bus from Jordan to Ramallah, or a bus from Jerusalem to Bethlehem or Ramallah.  

 

NEED TO KNOW FOR ISRAELI CUSTOMS

 

FIRSTLY, TO VISIT PALESTINE/THE WEST BANK, YOU CAN ONLY ENTER THROUGH ISRAEL

Israel completely controls and oppresses Palestine.

EVERYONE WHO TRAVELS TO ISRAEL WILL GET INTERROGATED 

Regarding why you’re visiting Israel and what your intentions are.

RULE #1 ABOUT PALESTINE IS THAT YOU DO NOT TALK ABOUT VISITING PALESTINE WITH ISRAELI CUSTOMS

It’s in your best interest to not tell Israeli customs and security that you will be visiting the West Bank. Israeli security may also ask you about it when you leave Israel as well because security is just as tight on the way out of Israel. Under normal circumstances, I would not recommend lying to customs officers, but these are special circumstances. It’s like drinking and driving- if you’ve only had one drink and you’re totally fine, yet you drive through a police roadblock and they ask if you’ve had anything to drink, you say “no”, otherwise they will have a reason to unnecessarily investigate you further. If you do admit to visiting the West Bank, you can say you were in Bethlehem for religious reasons.

IF YOU HAVE PASSPORT STAMPS FROM ANY ARAB/ISLAMIC COUNTRIES (ASIDE FROM EGYPT AND JORDAN), YOU WILL BE INTERROGATED FURTHER

Israel is not a fan of Arab and Islamic countries so the hate is real. 

YOU WILL BE INTERROGATED EVEN FURTHER AND POTENTIALLY DETAINED IF YOU HAVE PASSPORT STAMPS FROM ARAB/ISLAMIC COUNTRIES LIKE LEBANON AND IRAN 

(I.e. countries who do not recognize Israel). A Portuguese friend visited Israel after Lebanon and Iran and was detained for 5 hours upon arrival.  Another friend was strip searched and harshly interrogated upon exit from Israel.

IT IS POSSIBLE TO GET BANNED FROM ISRAEL (AND THEREFORE PALESTINE) 

An American friend was banned for 10 years because he was honest and said he was going to work and study at Birzeit University in the West Bank.  He had been to Palestine a few times before and had always been honest about his plans with Israeli customs, but apparently his luck ran out.

*** IF YOU VISIT LEBANON OR IRAN AFTER ISRAEL, IF THEY FIND OUT YOU WERE IN ISRAEL, YOU WILL BE DENIED ENTRY 

Luckily, Israel does NOT stamp your passport, unless you need a visa, so this is easy to avoid. However, if you cross to or from Jordan by land, Lebanese customs can tell you were in Israel by the location of the Jordan stamp. See How to Travel From Israel to Lebanon (and Vice Versa)

DO NOT ALLOW THIS TO SCARE YOU.  IT’S IMPORTANT TO BE AWARE OF THE FACTS AND PROCEDURES IN ORDER TO AVOID PROBLEMS.

 

HOW TO TRAVEL TO THE WEST BANK

 

YOU DO NOT NEED A TOUR TO VISIT THE WEST BANK

To enter the West Bank from Israel, take a bus from East Jerusalem (go to the bus station near Damascus Gate) to Ramallah or Bethlehem. The Palestinians at the bus station and on the buses will be very friendly and helpful.

To enter the West Bank from Jordan, go to the Allenby Bridge border crossing (aka King Hussein Bridge, which is about an hour from Amman) and take the bus to Ramallah.

You won’t need your passport to enter the West Bank from Jerusalem, but you will need it to re-enter Israel.

 

THE COUNTRY

 

YOU WILL LEARN A LOT 

I have never learned so much about a place and its history and politics as I did when I traveled to the West Bank. Go in with an open mind and be ready to listen.  Talk to locals and hear their stories. You will forget about your First World problems.

VISITING THE WEST BANK IS EYE-OPENING AND SOMETIMES IT’S HEAVY

You’ll learn how wrong the media is. And it’s completely heartbreaking. There’s a chance it will leave its mark on you. And it will for sure make you appreciate where you come from. Hebron is the most intense city in the West Bank to see and experience what really goes on under Israel’s occupation.

THERE IS A WALL

The illegal apartheid wall fences off the West Bank and Gaza from Israel, and Israel controls who is allowed out. The wall basically converted Palestine into a massive open air jail for the Palestinians.

DESPITE BEING AN ISLAMIC MAJORITY COUNTRY, CHRISTIANITY ALSO PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN PALESTINE 

Palestine is home to some of the most important Biblical sites in the world.

VISIT MORE THAN JUST THE BIBLICAL SIGHTS IN BETHLEHEM AND SPEND MORE TIME IN THE WEST BANK THAN JUST A DAY TRIP

The West Bank has a lot more to offer and to see and experience than just the Jesus stuff.

THE WEST BANK IS VERY MODERN AND CIVILIZED 

Which is very impressive considering their extreme hardships.  Palestinians drive very well and I never once encountered a squat toilet in the West Bank.

YOU CAN SEE SOME OF BANKSY’S ART AND HOTEL IN BETHLEHEM 

Banksy’s The Walled Off Hotel is located right in front of the wall in Bethlehem, both of which are very worthwhile to explore, even if you’re not staying at the hotel. The small but mighty museum in the hotel is an absolute must-see in order to learn about what really happens in Palestine and the West Bank, with regards to the occupation, and how it affects everyday life for Palestinians.

IT’S NOT TOURISTY

Aside from the Biblical sights in Bethlehem, which is very refreshing.

YOU’LL HEAR THE CALL TO PRAYER 5X PER DAY, EVERYDAY, EVERYWHERE IN THE WEST BANK

Which indicates that it’s time to pray.  Some travelers find the call to prayer annoying, which I find so sad because, even though I’m not at all a religious person, I think it sounds so beautiful.  You’ll hear the call to prayer five times a day whether you like it or not, so you might as well try to appreciate it.  If your accommodation is near a mosque, you’ll need earplugs because the first call to prayer is at dawn.

CIGARETTE SMOKE IS EVERYWHERE 

With no discretion inside of bars, cafes or restaurants.

THE SUNSETS ARE STUNNING

THE WEST BANK IS QUITE SMALL, SO YOU CAN EASILY TAKE DAY TRIPS TO MANY PLACES

But some places deserve more time, if you have it.

YOU CAN ALSO VISIT THE DEAD SEA FROM THE WEST BANK

ISRAEL CONTROLS PALESTINE’S WATER, SO THE TAP WATER IS NOT DRINKABLE AND SUPPLIES ARE VERY LOW 

So keep your showers short.  But you can drink the tap water in Ramallah.

YOU CANNOT FLUSH THE TOILET PAPER

Because the pipes can’t handle it.

 

THE PEOPLE AND THE CULTURE

 

PALESTINIANS ARE SOME OF THE MOST LOVELY, FRIENDLY AND HOSPITABLE PEOPLE ON THE PLANET

And they will completely capture your heart. And their sense of community is powerful.

FRUIT AND VEGETABLE VENDORS WILL SOMETIMES OFFER A SMALL AMOUNT OF THEIR PRODUCE FOR FREE WHEN YOU TRY TO BUY FROM THEM 

This happened to me a few times during my two trips to the West Bank.  Why?  A few reasons- if you only want one piece of fruit for a snack, it’s in their custom (I was told by a Palestinian that they think you’re poor if you only buy one); they’re ecstatic that you’re visiting their country; or because it’s a small amount and they don’t have change/can’t be bothered to make change for a “large” bill.  Every reason comes back to their hospitality. And the offer means so much coming from people who have so little.

PALESTINIANS WILL DROP WHAT THEY’RE DOING AND WALK BLOCKS OUT OF THEIR WAY TO HELP YOU FIND WHAT YOU’RE LOOKING FOR

They’re the nicest people.

COMMUNICATION

 

MOST PEOPLE YOU’LL ENCOUNTER SPEAK ENGLISH 

And they will be very welcoming and happy to answer any questions.  I had never any problems with communication.  If someone doesn’t speak English, someone nearby will be happy to translate.

LEARN SOME BASIC ARABIC PHRASES:

• No = lah
• Thank you = shukran (shuh-kran)
• No thank you = lah shukran  (you’ll need this one a lot )
• Hello = “salam” or “salam alaikum” – Sah-lahm Ah-lay-koom.
• Inshallah = “God willing”, which is rather useful. 

 

GETTING AROUND

 

TO GET FROM CITY TO CITY, TAKE A SERVICE (SER-VEES)

Which is a shared taxi.

WHAT TO WEAR

 

DRESS CONSERVATIVELY 

It’s not mandatory to cover up (unless you’re in a religious place), but it’s more respectful and you’ll feel more comfortable.  As a woman, you’ll attract slightly less attention and feel more comfortable if you do cover up.  Cover your shoulders, chest and knees, avoid tight clothes and it’s always good to keep a scarf with you. 

Ramallah is the most modern and cosmopolitan city in the West Bank, with nightlife and some women wearing jeans and fewer headscarves.  

 

MONEY AND COSTS

 

THE WEST BANK IS AN AFFORDABLE PLACE TO TRAVEL 

It’s a fraction of the cost of traveling Israel.

NIGHTLIFE

 

THERE IS NIGHTLIFE IN PALESTINE 

But only in certain places. There is no shortage of excellent nightlife in the cosmopolitan and modern Ramallah. Other than that, aside from a few chill bars around Bethlehem, the West Bank is more or less dry.  There aren’t any bars in Nablus or Hebron.

THEIR WEEKEND IS FRIDAY AND SATURDAY

Which means Thursday night is like their Friday night, Friday is their Saturday, and so on.  Many places are closed on Fridays, aside from the fun places.

THE FOOD 

 

IT’S OFTEN DIFFICULT, BUT NOT IMPOSSIBLE, TO FIND FOOD THAT ISN’T FALAFEL OR SHAWARMA

There are restaurants with traditional Palestinian food, but there aren’t restaurants everywhere like you’d find in pretty much everywhere else in the world.  Which is a shame because…

PALESTINIAN FOOD IS REALLY GOOD.

But the best dishes I had were made by the Palestinian friends I made.

I made these friends at the hostels I stayed at Habibi Hostel in Ramallah and Bethlehem.

A MEDITERRANEAN CLIMATE MEANS THE FRUITS AND VEGETABLES ARE DELICIOUS AND PLENTIFUL

You can enjoy dates, figs, watermelon, oranges, olives, eggplant, tomatoes, cucumbers, strawberries, and nuts etc.

THE BAKED GOODS ARE AMAZING

Especially in Nablus, which is famous for its knafeh (see below), pastries, halva and cookies.  Their sweets are based around flour, nuts, honey, sesame and dates.    

 

FEMALE TRAVELERS

 

I traveled to the West Bank twice as a solo female traveler without any issues.  Because it is a conservative Islamic majority country, you do need to practice more precautions than a male traveler would; however, you’ll find that the Palestinian people are very helpful, gracious, friendly and happy that you’re there. 

DRESS CONSERVATIVELY

It’s not mandatory to cover up, unless you’re in a religious place, but it’s more respectful and you’ll feel more comfortable if you do.  Cover your shoulders, chest and knees, avoid tight clothes and it’s always good to keep a scarf with you.

 

LGBT TRAVELERS

 

IT’S NOT ACCEPTED

So you must exercise caution.

 

MORE INFORMATION ON TRAVELING PALESTINE AND THE MIDDLE EAST

 

What to Know Before You Travel To The Middle East

How To Travel From Palestine to Lebanon (And Vice Versa)